When it comes to effective yet underrated skincare ingredients, azelaic acid is a name that often flies under the radar—but deserves a spot in your skincare lineup. Derived from grains like barley, rye, and wheat, azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that dermatologists and skin experts swear by for its multi-functional properties. azelaic acid 2025
From fighting acne and reducing rosacea symptoms to brightening dark spots and smoothing texture, this ingredient is a powerhouse that works quietly but effectively.
1. What is Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring acid found in grains and also produced by the yeast that lives on healthy skin. In skincare, it’s typically found in concentrations between 10% and 20%, and is used both in prescription-strength formulas (like Finacea) and over-the-counter products.
It’s best known for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and comedolytic (pore-unclogging) properties. Unlike many other acids in skincare (like glycolic or salicylic acid), azelaic is gentle enough for sensitive skin, yet powerful enough to treat complex skin issues.
2. How Does Azelaic Acid Work?
Azelaic works in several ways:
Antibacterial Action: It kills acne-causing bacteria like Cutibacterium acnes.
Anti-Inflammatory: Reduces swelling and redness, especially helpful for rosacea.
Keratin Regulation: Prevents the buildup of dead skin cells that clog pores.
Tyrosinase Inhibition: Slows melanin production, helping to fade dark spots and melasma.
Mitochondrial Activity: Helps promote healthy skin cell turnover.
Because of this unique multi-pathway action, azelaic acid is a versatile treatment suitable for several conditions without being too harsh.
3. Benefits of Azelaic Acid
Let’s explore the major benefits in detail:
A. For Acne
Acid is an excellent acne treatment for both inflammatory (papules, pustules) and non-inflammatory (blackheads, whiteheads) types. It works by:
Killing acne-causing bacteria
Reducing inflammation
Preventing future breakouts by keeping pores clear
It’s especially useful for people who have sensitive skin and cannot tolerate benzoyl peroxide or retinoids.
B. For Rosacea
One of the only topical ingredients approved for treating rosacea, azelaic acid reduces:
Redness
Bumps
Visible blood vessels
Its anti-inflammatory nature helps calm the skin and reduce flare-ups without irritating.
C. For Hyperpigmentation and Melasma
Azelaic inhibits tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production. This makes it a great option for:
Melasma
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
Sun spots
Uneven tone
Studies show that azelaic acid at 20% strength is as effective as hydroquinone for melasma, without the harsh side effects.
D. For Skin Texture and Brightening
Consistent use of azelaic acid can:
Smooth rough skin
Minimize the look of pores
Improve skin brightness
It promotes healthy skin turnover, giving your complexion a fresher, more radiant look.
4. Who Should Use Azelaic Acid?
Azelaic is one of the few ingredients that is:
Safe for all skin types – including sensitive and acne-prone skin
Non-comedogenic – doesn’t clog pores
Safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding
Effective across multiple concerns (acne, rosacea, pigmentation)
It’s especially ideal for people who are dealing with multiple skin issues at once—say, acne and redness, or melasma and breakouts.
5. How to Use Azelaic in Your Skincare Routine
Step-by-Step Guide:
Cleanse your face with a gentle, pH-balanced cleanser.
Apply azelaic acid on dry skin (pea-sized amount).
Follow with moisturizer to avoid dryness.
Finish with sunscreen in the morning.
Tips:
Can be used once or twice daily.
Works well with niacinamide, ceramides, and hydrating serums.
Avoid using with strong exfoliants like AHAs/BHAs unless skin is acclimated.
6. Possible Side Effects and Precautions
While azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, it may cause:
Mild stinging or tingling
Dryness or peeling
Slight redness
These effects are usually temporary and fade as your skin adjusts. If symptoms persist, reduce application to every other day.
Pro tip: Always patch test before full use.
7. Azelaic Acid vs Other Ingredients
Azelaic Acid vs Retinol
| Feature | Azelaic Acid | Retinol |
| Irritation | Low | High |
| Acne | Yes | Yes |
| Pigmentation | Yes | Yes |
| Pregnancy Safe | Yes | No |
| Anti-aging | Mild | Strong |
Verdict: Use azelaic acid if you want similar results to retinol but without the harsh side effects.
Azelaic Acid 2025 vs Niacinamide
| Feature | Azelaic Acid | Niacinamide |
| Acne | Yes | Yes |
| Redness | Strong | Moderate |
| Brightening | Strong | Mild |
Verdict: Use together for maximum skin barrier support and brightening.
Azelaic Acid 2025 vs Salicylic Acid
| Feature | Azelaic Acid | Salicylic Acid |
| Pore-clearing | Moderate | Strong |
| Sensitivity | Low | Medium |
| Rosacea Use | Yes | Not ideal |
Verdict: Choose salicylic acid for oily/acneic skin, and azelaic acid for sensitive/acne-prone skin.
8. Best Products with Azelaic Acid
1. The Ordinary Acid Suspension 10%
Budget-friendly
Brightens skin
Slightly silicone-y texture
2. Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Booster
Includes licorice root and salicylic acid
Great for hyperpigmentation and texture
3. Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10%
Formulated with niacinamide and vitamin C
Gentle yet effective
4. Finacea (Prescription)
15% azelaic gel
Ideal for rosacea and moderate acne
9. Dermatologist Recommendations
Most dermatologists recommend azelaic acid as:
A first-line treatment for rosacea
A second-line or adjunct treatment for acne
A safe, brightening agent for those avoiding hydroquinone or retinol
Dr. Corey L. Hartman, a board-certified dermatologist, says:
“Azelaic acid is a workhorse for sensitive skin patients. It does so much while staying incredibly tolerable.”
10. Final Verdict
Acid is a multifunctional, gentle, and effective skincare ingredient. Whether you’re battling acne, redness, or pigmentation, it has something to offer—and unlike harsher actives, it plays well with most routines and all skin types.
11. FAQs About Azelaic Acid
Q1. Can I use azelaic every day?
Yes, it’s gentle enough for daily use. Start with once daily, then build up to twice if needed.
Q2. Is azelaic acid good for oily skin?
Absolutely. It helps unclog pores, reduce sebum, and treat acne.
Q3. Can azelaic acid lighten dark spots?
Yes, it works by inhibiting melanin production and fading hyperpigmentation.
Q4. Can you use azelaic acid with retinol?
Yes, but it can increase dryness or irritation. Use on alternate nights or sandwich with a moisturizer.
Q5. Is azelaic safe during pregnancy?
Yes, unlike retinoids or hydroquinone, azelaic acid 2025 is generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding.